So today’s topic is about body pigmentation in skin of color. With us, we have large melanocytes that are easily triggered. And so literally one scratch, one bite or one burn, and we hyper-pigment. So for us on our body, it tends to happen on the back from back acne, butt acne, shoulder acne. It can happen from a scar, so after you’ve had surgery. It can happen after any form of dermatitis or inflammation of the skin, i.e. rashes. And the other common reason it happens is actually because of insect bites. So that tends to happen on the legs, for example. So these are classic reasons for having pigmentation on the body.
Now, often when we talk about pigmentation, treating pigmentation, products have been designed for the face. And so the body gets neglected. The body is a much larger area, and actually you do need to wear different percentages to what you would apply on the face because of the surface area and because of absorption of actives. So I think today’s video is quite necessary, especially if you have pigmentation over a larger surface area, and if it really affects your quality of life. The reason being the majority of products on the market have been designed for Caucasian skin and can burn and lead to more pigmentation. If that happens in Caucasian skin, then there’s not really any long-term ramifications, but actually for skin of color, if we burn, we will hyper-pigment, and that pigmentation can stay there for years. And it’s often more psychologically damaging than the initial assault to the skin. So the initial acne mark, for example. All right. So that’s the introduction. If that sounds good to you, let’s dive right in.
Some of the other common causes of body pigmentation actually takes place on the elbows and the knees. So they tend to occur actually because of friction. So for example, if you’re kneeling a lot, cleaning or praying or exercising… Actually, in lockdown, a lot of people were doing floor exercises and suddenly knee pigmentation was developing, and that’s the reason. The other common cause is eczema. So eczema tends to… You get the rash, for example, in the folds. So it may be in the folds of your elbows, your knees and the back, can lead to thickened skin and pigmentation as well. So basically any form of injury or inflammation will trigger our large melanocytes and will lead to pigmentation. So what happens is tyrosine is converted to melanin using the enzyme tyrosinase. So tyrosinase is the enzyme want to be able to control. So we do that using a category of ingredients called tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase inhibitors will slow down that enzyme and therefore slow down the rate of melanin production.
That is the only way to give you long-term results. The reason being that if I just peel the top layer of skin away, you get temporary results because the skin is a living organ and cells will grow back and come back to the surface if you haven’t calmed down that melanocyte. You have to slow down the rate of melon production in the melanocyte, in order to see long-term results. So, first thing you want to do is to repair the skin barrier. So after the rash has gone or the bite or the scratch or the cut has healed, the actives that you want to be using on the scan are things like alpha arbutin, vitamin C such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or your water soluble sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
You want to use dioic acid. Salicylic acid is excellent as well. It’s an anti-inflammatory less than 2%. You want to use kojic dipalmitate, licorice root extract, niacinamide, and then vitamin A. I love all three forms of vitamin A on skin of color used in combination. So retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde and retinol. And of course, your tocopheryl acetate, your vitamin E. So these are all the actives that I would love for you to use on the body when you have body pigmentation.
So I looked hard for a product that contained all these actives for you, for the body, and it didn’t exist. So I decided to make it for you. So I did create the world’s first body pigmentation kit for skin of color, and it does contain 10 different tyrosinase inhibitors and antioxidants for the body. So don’t forget, the skin on the body is thicker, so you can use higher percentages and also lower PHs than you would for the face. So that’s what I’ve done with the body pigmentation kit.
Having said this, I always say start cheap because the kit is expensive. So I would say start off with the ordinary alpha arbutin, niacinamide. You can use [inaudible 00:05:09] tranexamic acid and see the results you get with that first. I just wanted my skin of color family to have an option to upgrade from what was available in your local drug store before you go straight to professional treatment, which can often cost thousands of pounds. I wanted you just to have that one step up, which was a lot cheaper than professional grade, but also far more effective than what’s available to you right now.
So the link for the body pigmentation kit is down below, so you can have a look. But don’t forget, always start cheap. Start with alpha arbutin, your niacinamide, your tranexamic acid first, and hopefully, hopefully you get to see results with that and you never need to buy any of my kits, hopefully. But if you don’t see with that, I just want to have an option for you that you knew was safe for skin of color. So the question I’m being asked at the moment is how do we use the Dr. V Body Pigmentation Kit. So first of all, in the morning wash with a fragrance-free moisturizer. The two I like at the moment is a Aveeno Restorative Skin Therapy. And the other one is Lipikar Wash. Both are fragrance-free and hydrating, which is important. Moisturize afterwards with either Cetraben or CeraVe. That’s fine. And if it’s an exposed area, make sure you’re wearing your SPF 50. And don’t forget, I do prefer mineral sunscreen over chemical sunscreens for an inflamed area, especially with sensitive skin.
So I would always recommend a zinc oxide based sunscreen for you. Then at nighttime, PM, you want to wash the area to remove the moisturizer and the sunscreen. Otherwise, no other actives are going to be able to penetrate. Apply your HPC Clear, so that’s one of the products in the body pigmentation kit, onto the pigmentation as a layer. It is a strong cream. So I do say wear it for about two to three nights. And then on third night apply your Vita A.C.E. Vita A.C.E is your skin restoring cream. HPC Clear is your tyrosinase inhibiting cream. And always with skin of color, I’m always conscious about the skin barrier and making sure that we don’t disrupt it. So that’s why I like to alternate. Because my product does contain triple A, so that is your three forms of vitamin A, your retinyl palmitate, retinol, and retinaldehyde, I do want you to wear a fatty moisturizer on top because don’t forget, vitamin A increases cell turnover and can be very drying to the skin.
When you have dry skin, pigmentation can often appear worse because what’s happening is you’re compacting skin cells at the surface. And dry skin doesn’t have the water molecules to separate them, and so pigmentation in the skin cells can appear darker to the eye. And that’s why I say hydration really is essential. This is one of the reasons why when you have dull skin and then you apply your moisturizer, suddenly your skin starts to glow. This is the reason. In terms of when to apply your products, I always say, apply your actives two hours before bed so that you get maximum absorption before you go to sleep, especially if you’re like me and your face goes right into the pillow, which is also very bad for your face and your wrinkles. But anyhow, make sure that you do two hours before bed.
It does tend to take six cell cycles to work. So if you’re 30 years old, one cell cycle’s about a month, I would say you’re looking about six months to see your final result. Results do vary from person to person. And in our clinical study, 70% of them saw a significant reduction in their pigmentation after six months. I have made quite a lot of videos for you on pigmentation using The Ordinary. So if you want to start off with The Ordinary, I’ve done a whole layering video for you for pigmentation on there. If you’re from India, I’ve done one using Be Minimalist for pigmentation. So start with that first. And I’ve just today even filmed a video on tranexamic acid and my favorite tranexamic acid. So you can even start with that first. So start with all those options first for skin of color, and then six months of doing that, if you’re not happy, then you haven’t an option to upgrade.