Doctor V – Honest Review of E45 for Skin of Colour

So today I’m reviewing E45. I’m trying to review as many of the international brands that most of us will find in our local drug stores as possible, just so that we can literally choose the best products for our skin. As you know, with our skin we do need to be more careful, more educated, more empowered with our purchasing choices, because for us irritation often means hyperpigmentation, and hyperpigmentation can take months or even years to get rid of. So we just need to be more careful with our skin.

So E45, I thought it was a really good one to start with, not start with, I mean, I think this is my 150th brand that I’ve reviewed, but it’s something that I’ve actually worn all my life, so it was quite interesting to go in with my formulator goggles and see whether or not I’ve been making a mistake all this times. If that sounds good to you, give me a thumbs up. Let’s dive right in.

So starting off aware E45 wash, I love that it has no perfume in it. As you know, fragrance and perfume are not ideal. They’re the number one cause of contact dermatitis, they’re core sensitizers. Say you become irritated to one fragrance and one product, you also become irritated and allergic to other ingredients in that product, and it tends to happen years later so you get delayed reaction. And so it’s very confusing and you just think, no, it couldn’t have been that product.

But in my opinion, if an ingredient is not good for your skin, then don’t put it on the skin. I’m all about wearing my fragrances all over my hair, my body, everything else, but I just wouldn’t put a frequency on my skin. So I love that they don’t do that either. The first ingredient here is paraffinum liquidum. So that is great for dry skin, it’s an excellent ingredient. However, I would say avoid if you have oily skin, because here the ingredient they use is Laureth-4, which is five out of five on the comedogenic scale and so even though it’s a wash with oily skin, when I go through my bouts of oily skin, you want to do nothing that is going to make your skin more oily or block your pores. It’s just literally the worst thing you could do. So avoid if you have dry skin, but I love this for anyone with dry or normal skin. Did I say avoid this if you have oily skin? And use it if you have dry or combination skin.

Okay. So moving on the E45 cream. So 14.5% is white soft paraffin, and then 12.6% is light liquid paraffin. So I love both of these. There’s no fragrance, no drying alcohols. This is an excellent cream for anyone that’s got dry or eczema prone skin, because it has great occlusives that almost act like a second skin and trap water in your skin and prevent any transepidermal water loss. I know you’ve heard me say this many times before, but that just means evaporation of water. That is the enemy when we have dry skin is evaporation of our very important water molecules in our epidermis.

So let’s coax and protect that water because it really is gold in our skin, especially in the winter months when there’s either air conditioning or central heating taking place and everyone’s body is feeling dry. The other important thing to remember with having occlusive barrier is that it prevents any allergens from entering the skin or any bacteria or any pollutants, these things further exacerbate inflammation of our skin.

And as you know, inflammation really is the enemy for us, because this is one of the reasons after you get eczema, you have PIH, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation because of the inflammation. We need to minimize or eliminate any form of inflammation on our skin. And so again, that’s one of the reasons why paraffin is so good. However, I would say avoid it if you have oily or congested skin, you do not want to be using an occlusive for those skin types. It’s great for children, especially when kids are young. So zero to three years old, there is a lot of eczema and so you do want to give them almost that second skin barrier protection. So I definitely recommend E45.

However, I think children’s skin tends to change in their pre-teen phase. So from about nine years old up to about 12, 13, the skin is starting to become oily. Is in that pre-puberty phase, and you again may want to avoid E45 then on the face. Their skin routine should be changing at this point. In fact, I’ve made you a video on preteen skincare. So please do watch that video because you don’t want to be using the same skincare on a three-year-old as a ten-year-old. It’s important to know that paraffin is not a humectant, meaning it’s not a water magnet, it’s an occlusive. So what I would recommend is a short lukewarm shower, pat your skin dry so it’s still damp. So you’ve still got the water molecules in the epidermis or the corneum stratum. So the top layer of the epidermis, and then you apply your E45 as your second skin to trap in any water molecules.

I think there’s some misguided thoughts that paraffin is carcinogenic. However you need to know that paraffin used in cosmetics has to be 99% pure before it’s allowed to be used and have no chemical irritants in it by that. So it’s important that you know that, and it’s not a carcinogen, and that is just, I don’t even know where that came from.

So moving on to the daily hand cream, I love it. It’s got no alcohol, no fragrance. It’s got the humectants, which has glycerin, and it’s also got the occlusive, which is a paraffinum liquidum. So I’d say keep this in your handbag, especially at the moment when we are all sanitizing our hands like crazy and everyone’s got dry cracked hands. I would definitely not only keep your hand sanitizer in your hand bag, but also your hand cream. So the one from E45 is excellent. Definitely recommend it.

Okay, so moving on to the next product, which is a moisturizing lotion. I’m happy for you to wear this product during the summer. I would avoid it during the winter. The reason being that the first ingredient here is water, which means that it’s going to be a thinner product and it’s not going to keep your skin hydrated for long enough. So it was fine during the summer. Again it’s got no alcohol, no fragrance in it which is good. However, I’d also avoid it if you have acne on the body.

So third ingredient here is isopropyl palmitate, which is four out of five on the comedogenic scale, so I would avoid it for those skin types, but dry skin during the summer, I’m happy for you to wear it. Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @thehyperpigmentationclinic.

Thank you very much.

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