Today’s topic is one that you’ve asked me for many, many times… Beauty Pie. Beauty Pie is a very interesting model and I do love the model. I love that you basically, you pay a subscription and products are made for you that are usually £50-£100, but you’re receiving them for £10 because there’s no middleman, there’s no marketing and so you are getting them at very good prices. I love that. I love anything that’s going to make our lives easier, but I really want to look at the ingredients and see, are these great products? I love the model, but are these suitable for us or whether we should maybe avoid.
Okay. Starting for the first product is Plantastic Overnight Miracle Face Oil. I love that it’s got squalane in it and it’s got algae in it. These are fantastic humectants, water magnets that plump up the skin and also reduce transepidermal water loss, which is evaporation of water from the skin. But, and this is a big but, it says, “Has no fragrance in it.” If you look at the website, it says, “No fragrance.” But when I looked in the ingredients, it said, “Linalool, limonene, geraniol, citronellol,” which are all fragrances. Because of the fragrance, that’s why I would say to avoid this product.
Now, the question I get asked all the time is, “Yes, but doctor, how bad is it having fragrance? Really, really?” And this is all it is. The number one cause of contact dermatitis is fragrance. And for skin of colour, I want us to have zero irritation. I want us to have, all of us, to confidently put creams on our skin and know that we are going to be fine and that we’re not going to react. And the problem with reactions from fragrances often it doesn’t happen immediately. It can happen years later. You can have a delayed reaction and you suddenly think, hold on, I’ve been wearing that cream for years. Why suddenly am I reacting? It can’t be that cream. And it actually is. And in fact, it’s a co-sensitizer. You don’t just become sensitive to that fragrance, you become sensitive to the other ingredients in that product too, which you were fine with previously as well and then you have other issues.
And I’m not saying that this happens to everybody. Absolutely not. It doesn’t. It’s just for me, I want 0% reactions for skin of color. For those of you are fine, great. For me, it really is just making sure that we are all using the best that is available for us. For this product, I would say no.
The next product in this range is Pure Oxygen Radiant Glow Moisture. The positives are that it’s packed with humectants and emollients which I love, but there’s a whole list of fragrance. There’s parfum, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, hydroxycitrolnellal, citronellol and linalool. Really is a lot of fragrance. And I think what Beauty Pie have done is they literally have copied what’s on the shelf, but guess what? 95% of what’s on skincare shelves are not great for us. This is one of the main reasons. I’m all about replicating the expensive product and democratising it but don’t also replicate the mistakes that are being made.
The thing is with fragrance, it’s such a touchy subject, I think for a number of reasons. A lot of people look at skincare like an experience. And it’s true, honestly, when I even put my own creams on my skin, which I don’t use fragrance, I’m not sitting there smelling it and feeling like I’m in a daisy field at all. I feel like I’m putting something on my skin that’s working for my skin and I’m not irritating my skin. It really is very functional. It could just be the type of person that I am. I need to know A plus B equals C and no other factors that could be making skin worse or worsening the situation.
But part of it is people wanting the experience with smells. The other part of it from a marketing perspective actually is people, it’s a well known fact that when you smell a cream and you like the smell of it, you believe that the cream is working. And so from a marketing perspective, it makes sense for the big companies to put in a lot of fragrance into their creams so that you smell it and you almost feel like, mmm, I love this cream. That’s before you’ve seen any results, because it takes weeks to see results from anything other than a moisturizer. To say, “Mmm, I love it. It’s working,” that’s coming from the fragrance and rheology, so how it feels, the texture of it. Texture, absolutely agree is essential. However, to make people fall in love with a cream that has no fragrance in it is extremely difficult. And you really only do that if the texture is great and if the ingredients are great. If people fully understand the ingredients, the percentages that are in their cream, that for me, is the best way to get people to fall in love with your cream.
Okay. Moving on to the next product, which is our Superdose C-Suite Rapid Action. What I love about this product, we’re going to start with the positives, the second ingredient here is sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which is a fantastic water soluble vitamin C. I formulate with it myself. Here’s the Doctor V Dark Circles Kit, I would even put sodium ascorbyl phosphate in best product. It’s one of my favorite water soluble vitamin Cs. However, the fourth ingredient they put in here is denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol basically increases the free radicals in your skin. Free radicals damage the collagen and lead to premature aging. It’s just something that we should be avoiding.
One of the reasons people use alcohol, is as a solvent. However, there are better solvents out there. Again, it’s not my favorite. And again, I think that this is a mistake that’s been replicated from one of the more expensive brands, but they’re making the same mistake too. I would just steer clear of alcohol. The other thing with Beauty Pie that I’m noticing is that they say in all their products that they’re formulated without parabens, however parabens are the best form of preservative that cause the least amount of contact dermatitis. When you’re not using parabens, you have to use another preservative, they tend to cause more issues. And again, for skin of color, I want us to have the least amount of inflammation and so when I see that, I get a little bit nervous myself. Again, with this product, I would say, “Avoid.”
Okay, so the next product is Super Healthy Skin Daily Vitamin C Defense Serum. That’s a really long title, isn’t it? The good news is, it says it has no fragrance and guess what? It has no fragrance. I double checked. I’m happy about that. However, the advertised actives are vitamin C, stem cells and echinacea extract. However, they’re all less than 1%. They’re at a fraction of a percent. That’s extremely low and unlikely to be in the therapeutic index. And so this ends up being, this is something that you’re able to do as a manufacturer is just put in an ingredient at a fraction of a percent and now you can advertise that it has that ingredient in it, but you don’t need to say whether it’s in therapeutic index or not. And that’s one of the reasons I created this channel is just to educate and make you understand the back of the packaging.
What exactly do all those words mean at the back? What does that order mean? And is this product actually good for you? Or should you avoid it? With this one, I think this one is really just a moisturizer. It’s a good moisturizer because it has no fragrance and it’s not going to irritate you, but you’re really not going to see much benefit with this particular product.
The next product is called Super Healthy Skin. Above phenoxyethanol, so that is maximum at a percent, it can be half a percent, but maximum at a percent, everything above that are solvents and emollients. All the actives are at a fraction of a percent. And so again, it’s unlikely to be effective. Plus they put in this particular product, they’ve got parfum, limonene and linalool in it too, which are all fragrances. Again, I would say avoid this product.
Okay. The next product is the Super Retinol Ceramide-Boosting Anti Aging. I love that it has no fragrance in it. I think they did an excellent job there and I love that the retinol is encapsulated. With encapsulated retinol, it means that you have much better penetration of the retinol into the skin because don’t forget, your skin is essentially wax. It’s a waxy layer, waterproof and it’s very hard to get anything into the skin and really want to encapsulate it almost in fats and lipids that make it easier to absorb, to get down to the basal layer. I love that they’ve done that. However, what I would say is all the actives here are less than a percent, but I don’t mind that because retinol I do like general at 0.5%, however ceramides they can use more. They still again, only used a fraction of a percent for ceramides.
And the other thing I’m not sure about is, I don’t know what the percentage is of retinol and when really you have one active, you may as well tell us what the percentage is because you’re selling the product based on that one active. It could be at more 0.1%, it could be at 0.05%. I literally I don’t know. I like retinol at 0.5% without it being encapsulated. Once it’s encapsulated, I don’t mind you going up a bit higher actually, because you get the benefit, but without the irritation. With this, if you like it fine, it’s not going to irritate you. I don’t know how effective it’s going to be because I don’t know the percentage of retinol in this product. That would be helpful. Beauty Pie, if you’re watching, just pop that percentage up on the website, just so that we can see. And if it’s at 0.5% plus, I am more than happy to recommend that product to you.
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